15. Backstitching

Any backstitching should be done after all the cross stitches in the area are complete. The number of strands to use should be given in the chart instructions. Most often a single strand is used.

A common way to start and end the thread is to run it under four or five of the existing cross stitches on the back if they are right next to where you want to start. You may choose to whip stitch around the second or third stitch as you are running under. This helps to lock the thread in.

Backstitching can be done left-to-right, right-to-left, top-to-bottom, bottom-to-top, or even on a diagonal. It all depends on where the outlines need to be. A backstitch from left-to-right would go like this (up on the odd numbers and down on the even):



To turn a corner without leaving a diagonal on the back side (up on the odd numbers and down on the even):



Some people prefer the double running stitch (also known as a Holbein stitch) to a backstitch. This is especially true if the backstitch will leave them stranded in the middle of nowhere. To do a double running stitch, go forward doing every other stitch (up on the odd numbers and down on the even):



Then come back, filling in the gaps:



To keep the line from looking staggered, be consistent on the return trip. Always come up on one side of the stitch that is already there, and go down on the other side. For example, come up above on stitch 7 and down below on stitch 8.

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14. How to End the Thread

Not surprisingly, the techniques for ending the thread resemble those for starting the thread.

And now for a strong suggestion--do not knot the thread. An exception might be made for a special case, such as an isolated stitch with no other stitches near it in the design.

One good method is to run the thread under four or five of the stitches on the back. You may choose to whip stitch around one of the stitches as you are running under. This helps to lock the thread in.

Sometimes dark colours show through when woven under lighter colours. Check to make sure this isn't happening.

If you stitch in a manner that leaves vertical lines on the back, try whip stitching or weaving up (or down) a few of these vertical stitches. This technique makes for a very neat looking back.

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13. Carrying Threads Over

You can carry thread over if there is no stitching between two areas of the design, but only for short distances. This means three or four squares on Aida, or four threads on linen.

The thread can be carried farther if the region between the two areas has been (or will be) filled in with other stitches. How far? This depends on the relative darkness of the colours. The carried thread should be woven under the existing stitches, but sometimes dark colours show through when woven under lighter colours. Check to make sure this isn't happening. Even under the best conditions, you probably shouldn't carry the thread more than a distance of five or six stitches.

Try to plan your work so that it isn't necessary to travel very far to do the next stitch.

What if a design has individual stitches with no other stitches near by? Imagine a design that represents snowflakes by individual, scattered cross stitches. It calls for each cross stitch to be done with three strands of white floss on a dark fabric. You try travelling from stitch to stitch, but the white floss shows through the fabric. What to do?

Try the following. Use one strand of floss, but stitch the first half of the stitch three times. Now you have the first slant done, with three strands of floss showing. Do the same for the second half of the stitch. When you travel to the next stitch, a single strand in the background won't show through as much as three strands.

Or, if you want to get a little more radical, use knots--one of the few cases where I think using knots is good. Use a single strand to do the stitch as mentioned above. Then take the two ends and tie a square knot to anchor the stitch and cut the ends short. A knot made with a single strand won't be very large and shouldn't create a lump on the front. If you plan on entering the piece in a contest, don't use knots.

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12. Fractional Stitches

Fractional stitches (1/4, 1/2 and 3/4) are simply cross stitches with missing arms. They are used to provide a rounded look to a picture (1/4 and 3/4), or an airy look (1/2).

Fractional stitches (1/4 and 3/4) can be much easier to do on linen or other evenweaves. On Aida, the needle needs to punch through the middle of the little square in order to complete the stitch. This can made somewhat easier by using a small sized needle (#26 or #28). No "punching through" is needed on linen, as the needle simply goes between the two threads.

A 1/4 stitch is done by coming up from one corner of the square and going down in the centre.

A 3/4 stitch is most often done by stitching the short arm first, like a quarter stitch. It is completed with a 1/2 stitch to make the other two arms. Note that this is an exception to the rule that all stitches must go in the same direction, as the long arm of the 3/4 stitch may go either "/" or "\". There are some occasions where people choose to do the 1/2 stitch first and anchor it down with the 1/4 stitch in order to achieve a certain effect.

Frequently, a 1/4 stitch and a 3/4 stitch share a single square. This means that a decision is left up to the stitcher. Which side is the 1/4 and which the 3/4?

As in just about every other area, this is up to you. Here are some different methods. Each provides its own distinct look.

• If there is a backstitch dividing the two sides, stitch two 1/4 stitches and let the backstitch divide them.
• Determine which side is in the foreground of the picture, and make that side the 3/4 stitch.
• If neither side is in the foreground, make the 1/4 stitch in whichever of the two colours gets there first. Fill in the 3/4 stitch as you come by with the second colour.
• Make two 3/4 stitches.

Sometimes a pattern calls for an entire area to be filled with 1/2 stitches rather than full cross stitches. If there are no definite instructions, it is up to you to decide which direction the 1/2 stitches should go--the same as the bottom half of a full cross stitch or the same as the top half. "Bottom" half stitches are more intuitive for some people. "Top" half stitches tend to blend into the background more, which might be the effect you want. Sometimes the picture itself makes a direction obvious. For example, 1/2 stitches used to represent feathers in a wing should probably slant the way the feathers themselves would slant.

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11. Making the X

One of the few rules in counted cross stitch is that all the stitches should go in the same direction. It doesn't matter if the bottom half goes "/" and the top goes "\", or vice versa. Just make sure that every stitch in the project is done the same way. And to be perfectly honest, there are exceptions to this rule such as 3/4 stitches.

The direction a person first learns to stitch seems to be a regional thing. The only reason it might be of importance is if you choose to do a very complex chart. Some complex charts with many fractional stitches or other embroidery stitches exhibit a subtle bias, assuming that the X's will be done a particular direction.

Stitchers who use the traditional method complete each X as they go:



Stitchers who use the Danish method do the bottom stitches first, and complete the X's as they return:



Many people use a mix of the two methods. They may use the Danish method for most stitches, but do the occasional isolated stitch as a complete X. Another school recommends doing rows with the Danish method and columns with the traditional method. This causes the thread on the back to make vertical lines.

Apparently, some antique samplers which were done in the traditional method survive today because the X's hold the fabric together, and the thread forming the X's themselves is less stressed. The "one-X-at-a-time" approach works well when stitching over one thread, rather than the usual two, as it helps stop the thread from disappearing behind the fabric.

Many people find the Danish method to be faster, and to result in less confusion about current location.

Choose a method which you like, preferably one which results in neat backs. While a neat back isn't required for a good looking front, it usually helps.

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10. How to Start the Thread

And now for a strong suggestion--do not knot the thread. An exception might be made for a special case, such as an isolated stitch with no other stitches near it in the design.

• Knots can create lumps and bumps on the front when the picture is mounted.
• Floss can catch on knots while you are stitching.
• Knots can lead to uneven thread tension and distorted fabric.
• Knots can pop through to the front on a loosely woven fabric.
• Knots are harder to undo if you make a mistake.
• Knots make the back look messy. A good general rule is that a neat back means a better looking front.

So, what is it you should do? There are several methods listed below. Many people use more than one, depending on the circumstances.
Running Under

Run the thread under four or five of the stitches on the back, if they are right next to where you want to start. You may choose to whip stitch around the second or third stitch as you are running under. This helps to lock the thread in.

Sometimes dark colours show through when woven under lighter colours. Check to make sure this isn't happening.

A variation--if you stitch in a manner that leaves vertical lines on the back, try whip stitching or weaving the thread up (or down) a few of these vertical stitches. This technique makes for a very neat looking back.

Loop Method
The loop method only works for even numbers of strands.
For two strands, start with one long strand about 36"-40" long. Fold it in half. Thread the needle so the two ends are near the needle and the "loop" is the end farthest from the needle. Start the stitch with the loop end dangling a little bit below the cloth. When the needle comes back down to the underside, run it between the loop and the cloth, and gently pull the loop tight.

Knotless Waste Knot
Start the thread from the top side, an inch or two from where you want to begin stitching. Leave a tail of thread on the top side. Careful placement of the tail before you start will cause the tail on the back to be covered as you stitch. When you have completed some stitches, pull the tail to the back side. Run it under the new stitches if necessary.

Waste Knot
This is similar to the knotless waste knot described above. One difference is that the tail on the front is knotted, to act as an anchor. Start the thread from the top side. Careful placement of the knot will cause the tail on the back to be covered as you stitch. The remaining tail on the back is run under the new stitches if necessary.

Away Waste Knot
This is similar to the waste knot described above. The tail on the front is knotted, to act as an anchor. Start the thread from the top side. It should be placed out of the way so the tail does not get covered while you stitch. At a later time, the knot on the front is cut away and the remaining tail on the back is run under existing stitches. An away waste knot gives you much more control over the tension and the way the first and last stitches appear from the front.


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9. Where to Start Stitching

You're finally ready to make that first stitch on a new piece of fabric. What's the right location in which to start? The centre of the cloth? The upper left? The lower right?

The design itself should be centred. Where you start stitching that design is up to you. Here are some different schools of thought.

• Let the design itself determine the starting location. Each design has its own best place to start.
• Start in the middle. It makes it easy to be sure everything is centred. The centre of the design is often more interesting to work on.
• The starting location depends on the direction you stitch. Try to have your needle come up through the hole with the fewest existing stitches and down through the hole with the most. For example, someone who stitches like this:

should start at the upper left corner of the design:




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